Last weekend was the 415th anniversary of the Battle of Sekigahara. This battle was the largest and most decisive samurai battle in Japanese history. To celebrate the event we attended the Sekigahara Matsuri and samurai school! Firstly though, for those of you that don’t know the story, I’ll give you my rendition of it now. For those of you that would prefer a super short summary, you can skip to about half way down the page instead!



The not so super short summary:
Oda Nobunaga was a great samurai who unified most of Japan and became the Shogun back in the 1500's. The Shogun was the country’s Military Commander and he effectively ran the country. Officially the Emperor was the highest rank, but the Emperor rarely had any power so the Shogun tended to run the show. Nobunaga was betrayed by one of his closest comrades who wanted the power for himself, so he committed seppuku, the honourable samurai suicide where they slice their stomach open, so that the betrayer wouldn’t get the glory of killing Nobunaga himself. This left Japan without a leader, until a loyal successor called Toyotomi stepped up and fought to preserve Nobunaga’s name and legacy. Toyotomi managed to maintain power and peace in Japan for 20 years before dying and leaving only a 5 year old son as his heir.

               Oda Nobunaga                                     Toyotomi Hideyoshi                                  Tokugawa Ieyasu
A political officer called Ishida, a Toyotomi clan loyalist, decided to act as a figurehead and help rule the clan until the young boy came of age to be able to rule himself. However, one of the highest ranked military lords in the clan, Tokugawa, decided it was his time to shine and saw the opportunity to gain power for himself! He split the clan in half, taking control of all the military generals, and leaving all the loyalists to Toyotomi. Of course, two leaders doesn’t work very well, so this indecisive period resulted in the epic Battle of Sekigahara.

Ishida tried to trick Tokugawa by forming a secret pact with an Eastern Lord who would raise his army against Tokugawa and draw him east into a battle. Tokugawa took half the samurai army in Osaka and marched them east to settle this rebellion. Ishida then took the other half of the army, rallied more lords and their soldiers from the west and marched to try and take Tokugawa by surprise. But Tokugawa was too clever and he discovered the trick. Firstly, he made sure his samurai would support him in battle and not turn on him for loyalty to the Toyotomi clan. They all agreed, but they were still greatly outnumbered. Secondly, Tokugawa was a very clever man and so he managed to convince a few of Ishida’s eastern lords to secretly pledge their allegiance to him instead of Ishida, and they were only to reveal this during the battle.

Ishida thought he had this battle in the bag. He had a much larger army, and he got to the battlefield first so he was able to strategically place his army around the mountains of Sekigahara. He even managed to position part of his army on a mountain to the east and south of the battlefield, so that when Tokugawa’s army came through the eastern valley Ishida’s armies could surround Tokugawa’s in a brutal sandwich! Unfortunately, Ishida didn’t realise how clever a man Tokugawa was.

On the day of the battle, Tokugawa’s army came through the eastern valley and started to fight on the battlegrounds between the east and west mountains as planned. However, when Ishida sent the signal for his eastern mountain army to come down and surround Tokugawa, two of his armies turned on him instead and decimated his side within hours.

After winning the battle, Tokugawa returned to Osaka, where he was declared the next Shogun by the Emperor and began the 265 year reign of the Tokugawa Shogunate This period of time is called the Edo period, and is when Japan shut themselves off from the rest of world. This resulted in the longest period of peace in Japanese history, and enabled the Japanese culture to develop with limited influence from the outside world to become the incredibly unique culture it is today.


The super short summary:
Two great Samurais, Oda Nobunaga, and his successor, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, successfully unified all of Japan. Unfortunately, when Toyotomi died, he left only a young child as his heir, and this threw Japan into disarray. Two men then both decided that they should be the new leader and fought the largest battle Japan had ever seen on the battlefields of Sekigahara (30km west of Gifu city). A man named Tokugawa won after employing some clever and sneaky tactics, and was declared the Shogun of Japan. His family’s reign as Shogun lasted 265 years and is known as the Edo period, which was the period of time where Japan closed itself off from the rest of the world and developed the incredibly unique Japanese culture we see today.


The Matsuri:
While in Sekigahara we checked out the museum which had the actual samurai swords used in the battle (cleaned of course), the battlefields, and the decapitation area! Also, being a Japanese festival, there were many performances, food stalls and adorable festival mascots! Japan loves having cute mascots for everything and anything, and this was no exception. They managed to make the dangerous war lord, Tokugawa, look cute in his soft and oversized samurai costume. There were also a few different cats dressed as samurais roaming around the festival, just in case one mascot wasn’t enough!

Tokugawa mascot
A range of the adorable samurai cats! 

The Lord Generals awaiting the next head for inspection at the decapitation area. 

Samurai School:

We started the day by getting dressed into basic samurai clothes, which were pretty much just comfortable cotton pajamas and uncomfortable size 6 straw sandles! Once we were dressed appropriately, we had a lesson on how to wield a sword and a spear. Hot tip: if you’re ever in a battle, always choose a spear! A swordsman will rarely get near you if you’re poking at them with a 5m long spear! We then got to try on some samurai battle gear and fought each other again! It was pretty fun, but Tom didn’t follow the instructions and improvised his own moves, so I died a few times. Second hot top: always choose Tom to go into battle with you over me. According to our certificated, in the spirit of the samurai we successfully and honourably learned and used the weapons and armour of the samurai like a pro (minus the like a pro part).


Learning the overhead slice action with a katana

If looks could kill! (Probably has a better chance than his plastic spear).

One of the many times Tom killed me in battle! (Always choose the spear...)

The students of Samurai School

Silver week is an ingenious invention by the Japanese where they string 3 public holidays in a row to make a 5 day holiday for the public! So a group of us JET's decided we'd venture through the wonders of Tokyo!
Arrgh! What's that big, scary thing next to the skyscraper?! Oh, it's just Tom.

Tom and I visited Disney Sea, which is more of an adults version of Disneyland. There's less kiddy rides and they serve alcohol! It was also decorated for Halloween with the Disney villains running the park and the shows. The most surprising part of the park was the overwhelming number of people that were decked out in full Disney paraphernalia! At least half the people in the park were wearing matching Disney character hats, shirts and bags. People went even further though! If you were there as a couple or in a group, you had to match your already matching character outfit to the rest of the group's already matching character outfits (shoes, socks and hairstyles included)! Luckily, we managed to each win an over sized stuffed Daisy and Daffy Duck which we were then able to (had to) carry around all day, helping us fit into the unwritten dress code a bit better!


Hello handsome! Oh, and hello to you too Gaston.


Daffy and Daisy got in trouble because the use of selfie sticks is banned in Disney Sea...

Sundays in Yoyogi are awesome for checking out the crazy Harajuku Girl fashions, as well as being able to catch glimpses of beautiful Shinto weddings at the Meiji Shrine. Luckily we, and the hundreds of other tourists at the shrine, managed to observe 3 different weddings occurring! The brides wore beautiful white, silk kimonos with large, rounded headpieces called Watabōshi, which shield their faces from the audience but not from their partner. Brides are able to choose between wearing the Watabōshi, or the more traditional Tsunokakushi. The latter is a headpiece that was designed to ”hide the bride's horns of jealousy" and shows her willingness to become a kind and obedient wife. From what I've read, younger Japanese woman are starting to move away from the traditional Tsunokakushi, opting for the Watabōshi instead.

This bride is wearing the traditional Tsunokakushi

This bride is sporting the more modern Wataboshi


It felt like we were walking in a forest instead of the middle of Tokyo!

That night we went to one of Tokyo's infamous themed bars. We chose 'The Lock Up', where a policewoman handcuffed us and led us to our cell. Pretty exciting so far, except it looked like we were being led into a haunted house, and the waitors were dressed more like ghouls and monsters than policeman?! The accidental change in theme suited us well as we began being served colourful test tubes and beakers of alcoholic concoctions, amusing the crazy scientists within us!




No trip to Tokyo is ever complete without a visit to Akihabara, the electronics and Otaku (Japanese anime and manga fans) district. Just to make sure we had covered it all, we went 3 times! The big red Sega building below is filled with arcade games and managed to keep us busy for a few too many hours! We quickly learnt how terrible we are at most games, especially the dancing and taiko drumming games! Tom and I were so bad at the Taiko game that we actually broke it and it could no longer be played!

We also visited a cat cafe (the owl cafe was booked out), accidentally walked in and quicky out of adult only shops, and we tried the crepes that all the girls at school kept telling me to try (they're filled with whipped cream, chocolate cookies, strawberries, and a little bit of heaven)!



So glad Tom finally got that haircut!

Mitch's face gives away how good this decision was!

We also managed to find the time to dabble in the Tokyo nightlife! The best night started inoculously with a group of us having a few casual beers on our terrace. At about 10:30pm, one of the boys realised it was his birthday the next day (they're easy to forget when you get to our age)! So we dressed him up in a party shirt and headed out to one of the best clubs in Tokyo's party district! The club we chose was filled with Japanese drag queens, lasers, shot bars, dancers dressed in LED robot costumes, and girls posing in skimpy outfits on podiums, staring hazily off into the distance like they were pondering deep philiosophical questions (like why they were posing on podiums in a nightclub in very little clothing at 2am on a weeknight). We had an awesome night, and Caleb was able to celebrate the start of his birthday in style, in a party shirt in a night club in Tokyo!

The awesome LED robot dancers in the club

Not as cool as these robots though!

Unfortunately this magical week of public holidays has ended and its back to normal school weeks until we stumble upon the next of Japan's many long weekends. So, later this month.
So we’ve been in Gifu for 2 weeks now and are just getting in to the groove of things!

In Japan’s ridiculously humid summer we have discovered the importance of an uchiwa (hand held fan), a sweat towel, and Uniqlo ‘magic shirts’ which are a godsend for avoiding sweat patches! Every day my phone tells me the temperature is somewhere in the 30’s and that ‘DisComfort is Very High’, which I’ve now learnt means the humidity is greater than 80%. We haven’t been fortunate enough to see what is says when it gets below 80% yet!

We’re now the proud owners of 2 fixies that we hoon around the streets on, recklessly not wearing helmets, but making sure we’re safe by abiding by the Japanese law of ‘not holding an umbrella while you ride’! For some reason that it considered unsafe, but wearing a helmet isn’t? Helmets are only enforced for children under 12y.o, but instead of a helmet, they wear what looks like a plastic construction hat! See the picture below:


Riding to work on my red fixie, basket on the front and all!

We’ve learnt just how good Japanese food from the supermarket, and even the local convenience store can be. It was our staple dinner for the first few days until we could be bothered walking more than 10 minutes in the gross heat to a restaurant! I still get my breakfast there every day on my way to the bus, because who get beat a fresh sushi roll for just $1? Here’s a picture of the high quality 7-11 meal we had for our first dinner in our apartment:


By finally venturing out in to this new culinary world we have already found many delicious restaurant contenders that may take the honour of becoming our ‘local’. Ramen is a likely winner, we just can’t get enough of that hot, fatty pork broth! We found one ramen place where you order by circling the variations you want from the basic bowl of ramen (ordering card pictured below). As you can see, due to our complete lack of Japanese, ordering ends up as a game of ramen lottery! It’s really fun, unless you like to thoroughly understand the choices on the menu and ensure you order the absolute best meal possible, but I don’t know anyone like that…


Here’s a few pictures from a few local places we’ve tried:

Ahhhh we love ramen!!! 

Tempura and soba noodles from a Japanese 'fast food restaurant'. The line was out the door so as we crept around the restaurant I saw ladies making the soba dough from scratch, putting it through their version of a pasta maker, cooking it and then immediately placing the noodles in people's bowls. Definitely not your typical 'fast food restaurant'!


Hitsumabushi, grilled eel on rice 3 ways. 
First you have it plain (how it looks in the photo).
Second, add the spring onions.
Third, add the raw egg! 


Going out for a multi-course lunch with my English teachers #nothingelsetodoinschoolholidays


Okonomiyaki is a Japanese style, savoury cabbage pancake where you add whatever ingredients you like to it and grill it yourself. Don't forget to smother it in the smoky sauce, sweet Japanese mayo and dried seaweed!

The kawaii (cute) cow is saying "I'm delicious" out the front of a beef noodle restaurant. The Japanese have cute characters for everything, even for promoting restaurants that serve the same animal up on a plate!

In our next post we’ll tell you about what happens at a crazy fire festival and a local fireworks show!

Sarah (and Tom)
Konnichiwa! We arrived safely in Japan early last Sunday morning with the rest of the Aussie JETs (Japanese Exchange Teachers) giving us the whole day to explore Tokyo! This was Tom's first time in Japan so with no itinerary we hit the streets doing whatever took our fancy.




First stop was a coffee shop to get some iced coffee after the long overnight flight. The interaction (or lack there of) we had with the waitress was evidence that we need to learn some Japanese quick smart! Second stop was a sushi restaurant so we could try some real Japanese sushi. Did you know that sushi in Japan isn't like the handrolls we have in Australia? Instead, Japanese nigiri sushi are bite sized, cylindrical shaped balls of rice with an individual piece of sashimi layered on top. To eat it, you should use your fingers or chopsticks to turn the piece of sushi upside down so that the soy sauce only touches the fish and not the rice before putting the whole thing in your mouth! So far this is proving difficult, but we're pushing through these hard times making sure we give ourselves plenty of opportunities to learn this integral new skill, as inelegant as we appear to everyone around us!


We stumbled across a J-Town anime/manga exhibition with one of our Canberra JET friends. There were heaps of displays, games and fun photo opportunities from animes such as Dragon Ball Z, One Piece and Naruto. A few of the photos have been posted below.





Can anybody work out what Tom's doing wrong in the photo above?


Monday and Tuesday were spent in JET conferences all day where we learnt how to be good Assistant Language Teachers (ALTs)! We had networking events on both nights where dinner and alcohol were provided. Unsurprisingly, this degenerated into a group of Aussies, Americans and Jamaicans going out and doing karaoke on both occassions! On the first night we got to meet and hang out with our fellow Gifu JETs (collectively we're known as Geefs). They all seem really cool and we can't wait to spend the next year or 2 going to matsuri (Japanese festivals), exploring our region and hanging out with these guys! We're also all a really good bunch of singers (well, we think we are and that's all that matters) so bring on more karaoke!!

The second night we were invited to the Australian Embassy which had a beautiful garden where we were served drinks and we were lucky enough to meet the Australian Ambassador for Japan, whose name happens to be His Excellency, Bruce! Bruce told us all about how the Embassy will look after us if something goes wrong in Japan (please contact them if you haven't heard from us for a few months), how to be ambassadors for Australia in Japan, and even offered to supply us with Australian paraphernalia kits including Kanga-cup kits!

We've now arrived in Gifu, met our supervisors and principals (all in very limited English and Japanese), moved into our apartment, and are just starting to fend for ourselves (still in a very supported way though). 

Stay tuned because next post we'll put some photos up of our apartment and introduce you to our new home town, Gifu city!  

Sarah and Tom
After 8 months since we first applied to the JET (Japan Exchange Teaching) Program, we found out that not only have we both been accepted, but we’ve also been placed together! In just 2 weeks we will be moving to Gifu City, famous for cormorant fishing, Ayu sweetfish and being the crossroads between East and West Japan. 

Gifu city sounds pretty similar to Canberra. It’s home to 400,000 people, but it’s a quarter of the area size of Canberra. Gifu has 4 distinct seasons like here, but instead of frosty winters we will be having snowy winters! Lastly, and most importantly,  there are plenty of bars and restaurants in Gifu city, including an Aussie bar where I can get my fix of AFL games! 

Gifu is located in the centre of the main island, Honshu. It’s an easy 2-3 hour train ride to Tokyo and Osaka and 1.5 hour drive to the Japanese Alps ski fields. I guess we better learn how to ski...


We will both be working in Senior High Schools (years 10-12). Tom's school is a Technical High School, which sounds relaxed and fun to work at. It's in Ogaki (the city next door) so he'll have to drive to and from work in whatever tiny Japanese car we manage to buy! Luckily in Japan you drive on the left side of the road so Tom can focus on trying to learn how to read the Japanese street signs instead!

I've been placed at a high achieving academic school in Gifu city which looks really new and has beautiful gardens and grounds. I have been told that my English department teachers are obsessed with food and regularly have their lunches delivered from local restaurants. I don’t foresee having any difficulties fitting in! The exact apartment where we’ll be living is still being finalised. The apartment we’re hoping to get has 2 bedrooms, 1 lounge room, a bath room (literally just a bath and a shower hose), a toilet and a laundry. The rooms will have tatami mat flooring and paper thin walls; great for summer, but we may be colder than the contents of our fridge in winter! Once we arrive we’ll make a video of the apartment for you to check out. Tom’s now finished work and I only have 1 week left! Our departure date is looming ever closer and we couldn't be more excited! 12 days to go! Sarah (and Tom)

Tom and Sarah were living in Canberra, Australia before they decided they wanted to live and explore somewhere completely different! They chose Japan, despite the fact that neither of them could speak Japanese or had any idea about the Japanese way of life, customs or etiquette! All they really knew was the limited insight they had gained from playing Nintendo games, watching anime and Hollywood versions of samurai and geisha.

They planned to learn about Japan by living, working and travelling throughout Japan, and they wanted to share their insights and adventures with you along the way!